The Classics 001: The Manhattan

Classics are classics for a reason: they work. While old recipes that are in use today are almost all changed from their original specifications, their essence remains the same. Today I will cover the Manhattan as best as I can.

The Manhattan

The original Manhattan was invented somewhere in the mid-to-late nineteenth century somewhere in New York. Past that, accounts of its invention are untrustworthy, but merit mentioning. The classic tale goes that Winston Churchill's mother, Jennie, was celebrating a governor's election at the Manhattan Club in New York in the 1870s. Historical records dispute her attending such an event, placing her in London at the supposed date of invention. Another possible origin revolves around the drinks of the five boroughs: the Bronx, Queens, Brooklyn, Staten Island, and the Manhattan. Either way, it is acknowledged that the original Manhattan recipe was made with a much more equivalent ratio of whiskey to vermouth, that it was made with rye whiskey and sweet vermouth, had a few lashes of bitters and usually a barspoon or so of either orange or cherry liqueur (Hellmich 353, Kosmas 34, O'Neil.) The bitters vary as either Angostura or Boker's, the latter being a classic bitter recipe lost when Boker's went out of business in 1930. A recreation of these bitters is available from Dr. Adam Elmegirab.

Original Manhattan Recipe Approximation:
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1 oz. rye whiskey
1 oz. sweet vermouth
1 barspoon maraschino liqueur
3 dash Boker's bitters
lemon twist garnish

Stirred, served up in a Manhattan glass.
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A proper Manhattan glass.

More modern Manhattans are "drier," using much less sweet vermouth. In some sense, they are a showcase cocktail. Because there is only enough vermouth to perfume the whiskey rather than modify it, the choice of whiskey used is essential. Many people prefer bourbon. I have had probably more Maker's Mark Manhattans ordered from me than any other spirit. Bourbons have a sweeter profile and are the most popular. Rye is more classic but tougher for most drinkers. Canadian whiskey is used for a more mellow style, popular in the prohibition era and sticking around for awhile after. Peated malt whiskys are not generally used. Multiple recipe books I have referenced cite a 2:1 ratio, but I make mine ever slightly drier still. I also use a heavier lashing of bitters. Here is my personal Manhattan recipe:

Barchemist Manhattan:
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3 oz. Rittenhouse 100-proof rye
0.75 oz. Carpano Antica sweet vermouth
2 dash Angostura
2 dash Peychaud's
1 dash Orange bitters

Stirred (approx. 25 revolutions) served up in a Manhattan glass.
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The way somebody makes a Manhattan can tell you a lot about the establishment. Proper Manhattans are stirred, never shaken. If you see a bartender shaking a Manhattan, you can immediately tell that they do not take their craft seriously. Frequently restaurant bars focus on the food and build the bar as an afterthought, so this is a common and unfortunate service bar practice. What bitters a bartender uses, what ratio they have personally chosen, tell you something about their palate and gives you a sense of their overall work. However, it is a strong cocktail and not to be taken lightly; before you judge a Manhattan, have a lot of them. The true beauty of the drink is in the subtlety it imparts in its taste; it is not just an acquired taste, but one that must be sought after to be experienced properly.

Go forth and drink, my friends.

_theBarchemist



References:

1. Hellmich, Mittie. Ultimate Bar Book, 2006. "Manhattan," p 353.

2. Kosmas, J., Zaric, D. Speakeasy, 2010. "Manhattan Cocktail," pp. 34-35.

3. O'Neil, Darcy. The Art of Drink, 2010. "Manhattan Cocktail." Accessed Nov. 2, 2014. http://www.artofdrink.com/archive/popular-cocktails/manhattan-cocktail/